Sad to say, but many parts of the country are headed toward a nasty time of year. Leafless trees and leaden skies will soon foreshadow winter storms and months of arctic air. Fortunately, Northern California in the late fall and even early winter can be still gorgeous, even though the rains will soon be alternating with sunny skies. In fact, this is an excellent time to visit Napa Valley. Summer crowds have departed, leaving restaurants where you can actually find a spot, wineries eager to see new customers, and roads that don’t back up with traffic. Here are some choice selections for getting the most out of your visit.
Dining
Thomas Keeler’s famed French Laundry [1] is considered by many the finest restaurant in North America. While this is, of course, a matter of taste, French Laundry is the hottest and hardest reservation to get. Plan to make your reservation exactly 60 days in advance to secure a table. Their nine-course Chef’s Tasting Menu ($240 per person) is legendary for its gastronomic artistry. Tip: French Laundry is delicious for lunch, too, when it’s much easier to get in and far less expensive.
Other excellent restaurants include Bistro Jeanty [2], La Toque, [3] Julia’s Kitchen, [4] and [5]Taylor’s Automatic Refresher [6], [7]an old-fashioned, high-quality burger stand that also offers one of the finest wine and beer selection anywhere in America. The Bounty Hunter [8] in downtown Napa is another great choice.. It’s really a wine bar, yet serves down-home, fun cuisine along with over 40 wines by the glass. Try their famous “Beer-Can Chicken.”
[8]Wine Tasting
World-class wines and wineries are at their peak in Napa Valley. Grape growing and winemaking were taking place here as far back as the 1880s, but until the likes of Robert Mondavi, business and tourism were strictly low-level. Today, Napa Valley’s wineries combine international opulence, impressive architecture (renowned architect Frank Gehry recently designed a St. Helena winery, due for completion in 2010) and big money, plus superb views. Late fall and winter are certainly no hindrance to enjoying and sampling Napa’s bounty. Prime wineries worth visiting include Opus One, [9] Quintessa, [10] Rubicon, [11] Clos Pegase, [12] the Hess Collection, [13] Far Niente, [13]Groth, [13] Bouchaine [13] and many others. Most wineries charge tasting fees and some are available by appointment only, so call ahead. Tip: Skip the traffic and drive the Silverado Trail, the north-south road on the east side of Napa Valle, instead of Highway 29.
[13]Spas
Napa offers many pampering retreats, from Calistoga’s natural hot springs to the intriguing new Spa Terra, [14] an underground spa cave opened this year. Other upscale spas include Auberge du Soleil, [15]Calistoga Ranch [16], and Villagio. [17] A variety of wine-centric treatments, such as the Spa Terra’s “Solo Vino,” an exfoliating grapeseed scrub, cater to both women and men.
Outdoors
Just because the winter season is approaching doesn’t mean outdoor activities are finished, since on any given day it may be sunny and 70 degrees outside. Bike rentals and tours [17]are available and the valley itself is flat and easy to navigate, so people take to bicycling between wineries, or to the various towns and State Parks around Napa Valley. Serene ballooning [18] is big here, and rides usually take place at dawn, weather permitting. Wine Country Helicopters [19] offers stunning aerial tours.
[19]Shopping
The small “Up Valley” town of St. Helena is a shopper’s gem, with a number of hot spots for shoes, clothing, upscale housewares, and more. At Dean and Deluca, [20] shoppers can find virtually any upscale food and wine imaginable. Wine Hardware, [21]a serious shop for wine lovers, is another must see. Foot Candy [22] offers the latest in women’s shoes, and just north of town lies the St. Helena Premier Outlet.
Back in Napa, the big shopping news is the Oxbow Market, scheduled to open this fall. Modeled after the highly successful Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, it offers many of the same sister shops. Spend a day browsing—and nibbling—in The Model Bakery, The Olive Press, Oxbow Wine Merchant & Bar, Pica-Pica, and The Fatted Calf, among others.
[22]Museums & Galleries
For those who seek culture with their vino, start with COPIA, [23] the American Center for Food, Wine and the Arts, a stunning museum and showplace dedicated to―what else?―wine, food, and art. Other outstanding museums include the Napa Valley Museum, [24]which features history and art; the 217-acre di Rosa Preserve, [25] which showcases art from more than 900 Northern California artists; the Hess Collection, [26]an impressive display of modern art; and Mumm Napa Valley [27], which features serious photography.
Where to Stay
Napa Valley has a number of fine small hotels and inns. Here are some of our favorites:
Meritage Resort [28]/Spa Terra [29]
Located at the southern end of Napa Valley, this new hotel’s affordable price makes it ideal for families and business travelers.
Hotel: (866) 370-6272
Spa: (707) 251-3000
Auberge du Soleil Resort [30]
Treat yourself to one of the most enchanting and expensive resorts in the country. Discerning travelers rave about its service, views, and exclusivity.
Hotel: (800) 348-5406
Spa: (866) 228-2490
Calistoga Ranch [31]
Though pricey, this Auberge property is hip, relatively new, and gorgeous.
Hotel & Spa: (707) 254-2800
Harvest Inn [32]
Ideally located at the southern end of St. Helena and within reach of many wineries and restaurants, this beautiful inn offers luxurious lodging at a moderate price.
Hotel & Spa: (800) 950-8466
Villagio & Vintage Inn [33]
Both Villagio and its sister property, the Vintage Inn, are located at the exact epicenter of Napa Valley. Book early.
Hotel & Spa: (800) 351-1133
–Bob Ecker is a travel writer and photographer based in Napa, Calif. Wine-tasting photo courtesy of Spa Terra; all other photos by Bob Ecker.